![]() This is described well in other posts, so I won***8217 t labour the point. The procedure is generally done to replace the oil and filter. Sucks to go thru all that to only cause yourself big and immediate problems.This can be accessed with the transmission still in the car. Just letting you know, search and read up on here you'll find threads. It was actually RS6 trans famous Tozo who told me that from his own mouth for one. Some say fresh detergents in new fluid can dislodge old and embedded deposits of gunk or whatever created by old fluid, that left alone would sit stationary as is and be fine but once fresh detergents in new fluid break them loose and they're floating around to get caught up in any of the multiple very small but mission critical fluid passages.you have a mission critical problem = dunzo trans. Could be coincidence but I believe the common wisdom is change fairly regularly if has been done so over cars life. And I know I'm not the only one with similar circumstances. not blaming them tho) and within 300 miles it totally imploded. Great write up and illustration.Mine was fine at 90K+ miles, no slip no codes, and I decided to "preventatively" change my fluid and filter (with that high-end uber expensive BND fluid. There is no signs of slipping and I have been hoping a fluid change may fix it. I have been thinking to do the same since my light came on and goes off due to torque converter code. If you plan to do the same, wait to replace the filter until the second drain and fill. When I service my trans, I usually do this procedure a second time after driving the car for about 20 miles, so as to get as much fluid out of the torque converter as possible. At that point, you can reinstall the fill plug and torque to 80Nm. The goal is to have fluid overflowing from the fill hole when the fluid temp reaches 35*C. Now get back under the car and check that fluid is still running out of the fill hole, and add more fluid if necessary. Get back in the car and do one more cycle of reverse, then drive for 15 seconds each. ![]() Now get under the car and add more fluid until it overflows from the fill hole. Now get back in the car, and with the emergency brake set, and your foot on the brakes, shift to reverse, then drive, holding each gear for 15 seconds. You now have to get back under the car and immediately continue to pump fluid until it again starts to overflow from the fill hole. Now place the computer where you can see it from both in and under the car, and start the car. Next get in the car and use the Vag-com to enter the transmission module, then select "measuring blocks" and enter block 004. Now, with your hand pump, fill the transmission until fluid starts to run out of the fill plug. Now you can remove the fill plug (17mm Allen socket). Next reinstall the drain plug and torque to 12Nm. Now you can replace the strainer (audi part# 01L-325-429-B ) and reinstall the pan along with a new gasket (Audi part# 01L-321-371). Brake cleaner will work, or any other solvent (I like lacquer thinner). The next step after the fluid has drained is to remove the pan, and clean the magnets that reside inside. ![]() It's best to let it drain overnight, as the fluid has to be refilled starting with the car completely cold, or at the very least the fluid temp has to be below 30*c. Now you can remove the drain plug (T27 torx) and drain the fluid. The car must be completely level (I usually just measure the distance from the ground to top of the wheel well and make sure they are within 1/4"). Step one is to raise the car (a lift is preferred, but jack stands are just fine). If you don't have one, don't try to fill the transmission You will also need a hand fluid pump which can be purchased at any auto parts store:Īnd a 17mm allen socket, and a T27 torx bit: First of all you need a Vag-com to monitor the fluid temp while you fill the trans. I get a lot of pm's about servicing the gearbox on our cars, so rather than continuing to outline the fill procedure in private, I figured I'd post it up for all to see.
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